Honda Cb 900 C Manual

02.10.2018admin0 Comments
Honda Cb 900 C Manual 4,9/5 1480reviews

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View and Download Honda CB900C user manual online. CB900C Motorcycle pdf manual download. Also for: Cb900f. Service Manual Honda CB900F - 1980 t/m 1982; Chapter 01 General Information: Chapter 14 Front Wheel: Chapter 02 Lubrication. Download CB900_80_thru_82.rar. This is the most complete Service Repair Manual for the 1980-1982 Honda CB900F CB900C. CBR 600 Workshop Service Repair Manual; honda CBR900RR, CBR 900 workshop. This manual literally covers everything when it comes to the Repair, Maintenance and even service of the Honda CB900F CB900C. Every part of the engine and chassis has been thoroughly studied and explained in exploded views for easier recognition.

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Honda Cb900c Service Manual - reasons2travel.com Honda Cb900c Service Manual If searching for a ebook Honda cb900c service manual in pdf form, then you've come to the loyal website.We present.

Good afternoon all, Couple of questions I'm hoping for suggestions on. My dad's got an old Honda CB900 Custom in the garage that I'd like to fix up this fall. There were never any mechanical issues, no crashes, etc. He stopped riding about 12 years ago and it has simply sat in the garage since.

Obviously it doesn't run now. There is no external rust that I can see. Question is this: if a bike sat that long without being run or touched, what potential problems might there be that need to be addressed? What might need replacing, or cleaning, etc?

Obviously there's not a lot of detail for you to go off of, but just curious if anyone might be able to give me some issues that would immediately come to mind. Any thoughts on what it might possibly cost to get it running again?

Second question sort of follows in step. I don't currently have much mechanical experience of my own at the moment. I'm not completely inept (I can change the oil, battery, fuses, etc. In my car), but I have no background, I never studied it. I would really like to be proficient enough to fix up and maintain my own bike, however, does anyone have any suggestions on books, classes, websites, etc.

That might make this easier? Thanks for reading, and I look forward to your help! The CB900C is a very interesting bike: 10 speed transmission; OEM oil cooler; and just a beautiful bike all around.

Now, about making repairs. 1) Assess the gas tank: shine a flashlight in it to look for surface rust. Unless the tank was filled to the top, prior to storage, it likely has some rust. If it has too much, even a liner won't save it, and that would be a shame. Tank liners are a complicated topic, so search the Internet for motorcycle tank rust solutions, or some such, and read heavily, before you do anything. 2) Assuming the tank can be salvaged, the gasoline will have turned to varnish, even if a stabilizer was used, so you will want to flush out the tank with acetone, a solvent, which can be purchased at your local hardware store, or Wal-Mart, in the paint section. Search the Internet for more specific directions.

2A) Make sure the engine is not seized: put a good, fully charged battery in it (the old one is toast, don't waste your time with it), and see if it turns over. It won't start, but if it turns over, the engine is not seized, and it is not an 800# paperweight! Proceed down the list. 3) Get yourself a copy of the Factory Service Manual for that bike model and year -- search the Internet, as it may be available for free, or you can pay for a PDF copy for most bikes, which are still available. You need the OEM Manual, if at all possible. Clymer, and Haynes are good supplements, but there is no substitute for the OEM. 3A) Use SeaFoam, as a solvent/cleaner by adding 2 oz.

It to the fork tubes prior to draining; manually compress the forks several times to circulate it throught the forks, internally, then drain, as per the manual, and put in fresh fluid. 3B) Add SeaFoam to the crankcase oil, prior to changing it out; this should be done after the carbs are repaired, as you will need it to run. The SeaFoam will dissolve carbon deposits, varnish, etc., from within the engine -- run it for 5 minutes on the center stand, idling, shifting through all five gears, and then shift into the high range, letting the rear wheel spin freely -- this will circulate it throughout the engine, and the transmission. It will also turn your oil coal-black -- change out oil and filter to remove the crud dissolved. 4) Change all of the fluids, including brake fluids, fork oil, shaft drive lube (a gear oil, easy to do, little volume required, but it is critical -- see OEM Manual), as well as engine oil (see above). Chances are very good that the brakes will need to be disassembled to clean out dried/gunky Brake Fluid.

Use only DOT-3 fluid, which will function as a cleaner for the parts (this is why you will want/need the OEM Manual). Use an old toothbrush to gently scrub the parts with fresh DOT-3 Fluid, to get the gunk out. Wear nitrile gloves to protect your skin, as well as a face shield. 5) Get yourself a clicker Torque Wrench. Harbor Freight sells them for around $20. You need to properly torque everything.

Never guess, never just turn it 1/4 past finger snug. Apply the proper torque -- always, on every bolt! This is why you need the OEM Manual -- it lists the proper torque for everything. 6) The carbs will need to be removed, disassembled, and cleaned properly. YouTube is your friend!!! 2015 Arctic Cat 500 Fourwheeler Repair Manual here. Search it for videos on everything you will want to do. There are excellent videos on cleaning carbs, as well as synchronizing them afterwards, on YouTube.

It also has videos on: oil changes (my Kawi Voyager has two oil drain plugs, for example, so check the OEM Service Manual, for all procedures, prior to starting.); brake fluid flushing; cable lubing; etc. That's a good starter list. Here is a web site, which is likely your best source of information on the CB900C, but see my caveats after the link.

These folks are incredibly knowledgable, but they will not tolerate questions on subjects they have alreadly covered, ad nauseum, over the past 20 years! Read their rules, carefully. Use the 'Search' function judiciously. When you ask a question, couch it by saying that you used the search function, but couldn't find the answer. And wear your asbestos shirt and pants, and brace for a fiery response if your search-fu failed. Help I have a honda cb900c but my 4 carbs are overflowing and I did also bypassed the automatic petcock, i dont have the gas tank connected i am feeding the gas with a bottle straight to the gas line and i also have the vaccum nozzle caped off but my motorcycle wont start, however i spray some gas on the carbs and i got started for 15 seconds max i was wondering if you guys could help me out with this issue this is my first build and i want to start riding but i just havent been able to get it started.

So I am having a problem with my bike and I'm not particularly mechanically inclined. The engine won't turn, and I replaced the battery and emptied the float bowls. Any ideas as to what the problem could be?Ideas? Pretty much any/everything. You've not even cracked teh surface.

I don't want to be the rain on the parade here, but let's be real. As a guy who restores and sells vintage japanese bikes for a living, I can tell you a 'good' condition, running CB900C is worth about $2,000. A museum-quality pristine one is maybe $3K. The older CB750's are the ones that are 'hot' right now and have big money in 'em. The 900 is an also-ran oddity that has its fans, but doesn't command the prices.

SgtSlag's list is an excellent start. But the bottom line is this better be a labor of love, 'cuz it's not 'worth it' in any sense of the word. Just in parts/rebuild kits/fluids/etc. You're gonna be into it way more than the bike is worth to get it running again. Don't get me wrong: I love 'em. I think it's a great balance of displacement versus revs, I think the inline-4 CB engine is hard to beat in general.

I think the big old heavy carbs are great and you can rebuild them for eternity and they'll keep working. I think the 10-speed tranny is super-cool, and I really like the look of the bike. I'm a fan, but I'm also a realist. Money-where-my-mouth-is time: I currently have an '82 CB900C in excellent cosmetic and running condition: It's an 8/10 bike. Someone shows up with $3K cash money, they're riding it home. You can't fix up a multi-year non-runner for that.

Sorry to be the grinch here.

The Suzuki GS1100GL was 'as simple as a stone ax,' and testers found little to criticize. Photo Courtesy MC Staff • • • Honda CB900C Claimed power: 83hp @ 8,500rpm Top speed: 132mph Engine: 902cc air-cooled DOHC 16-valve inline four Weight: 588lb (wet) Price then/now: $3,349 (1980)/$1,500-$2,500 The term Factory Custom may be an oxymoron, but the 1980 Honda CB900C was Honda’s early attempt at blending sporting performance with cruiser credibility and touring capability. Did it succeed?

Or was it just trying to please all the people all the time? Around 1980, the full-size motorcycle market began splintering into numerous niches, including the Factory Custom. Seats grew steps, bars pulled back, footpegs inched forward, and clean drive shafts replaced messy chains. No doubt mindful that its game-changing V4s were in the pipeline, Honda stretched its trusty 4-valve inline 750cc to 900cc, then laid back its ergonomics to take on Suzuki’s cruiser GS850/1100GL and Yamaha’s similarly-themed XS1100 Special. Kawasaki 750 Ss Operation Manual.