Dt 175 Service Manual
Dt 175 Service Manual 3,3/5 363reviews
You are buying a PDF Service & Shop manual for a 1989 Suzuki DT175 175 HP 2-Stroke Outboard Service/Shop & Repair Manual You will receive a PDF version of this file emailed to your PayPal email address within the hour. If you would like the same PDF service manual shipped to you on a DVD please pay the $4.99 Shipping charge during checkout. Please watch the following video for a quick overview of our business. Please click on More details above to view sample pages from one of our service manuals or click on the Examples header to download an example PDF. This PDF service manual will show you every nut and bolt on your vehicle. With hundreds of pages, it will show you how to distinguish any problem (from an oil change to a transmission swap) and how to fix it on your own. There are many illustrations to aid you during your job and easy to read text throughout the manual.
1979 Yamaha DT175 service manual My bike is a Yamaha DT175 (1979) and I need to get a service manual and parts - Yamaha Motorcycles question. Yamaha CT2 175 Trail Illustrated Online Parts Diagram Schematics HERE. Yamaha DT80 Trail DT 80 Workshop Service Repair Manual German Part 3 HERE.
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Hi, Anonymous the vast majority of service, parts, and owners manuals on the internet are 'FREE' to download and all service manuals contain wiring diagrams in the back pages. The rest usually charge a modest fee around $10 sometimes more and there is a handful of obscure, rare, obsolete, and very old models that are no longer or never were available, then there is eBay where you may be able to find what you need at a very high price because of its age and rarity. Most of the 'FREE' manuals will cover your exact make, model, and year otherwise one will be provided that comes as close as possible to your bike and will have most of the same info that an exact manual would have.
To download your manual please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need.
• 20 Answers SOURCE: I had the same problem recently where the idle speed was too high (3000 RPM) when the steering was pointing hard left. Here are some possible solutions to your problem. I have listed them in order of probability: 1. Maybe sounds too obvious, but if everything else is in good working order, this is usually the cause of a high engine speed at idle.
Locate the choke and 'play' with it to see if this has an effect on RPM. The throttle cable is tight or catching. Try loosening the lock-nut and teasing the cable away from the grip end. Don't force it too much to avoid snapping it. If it releases, check the throttle free-play is correct, and adjust if necessary. Lubricate cable at both ends to reduce any restricted movement. The throttle cable is rusty.
Try using a bit of WD40 at each end of the cable (handle and engine alike) and use a lubricant. 1975 is an old bike for sure, so clean & check the entire length of the cable for cracks or splits. Remember to wipe away any excess WD40 or lubricant after any maintenance. If you discover that you need a new throttle cable, these are cheap and easy to fit, and are normally available through eBay. The engine idle speed setting is incorrect. There should be a screw situated somewhere around the engine case (you may have to consult the manual to find it).
Turning this screw clockwise/anti-clockwise will adjust the idle speed up or down. Suggest you only perform this as a last resort.
The engine idle speed can be dictated slightly by oil levels, so make sure the oil levels are between min/max on the dip-stick. Also, ensure that you are using the correct engine oil for your machine (consult the user manual), e.g. 2-stroke or 4-stroke, mineral or semi-synthetic, etc. As I cannot guess what you mean by 'too high' when referring to the actual idle speed, I would suggest that if engine speed is more than 500 RPM above normal, it will most likely be an issue with the choke or throttle cable. I would suggest you try finding a bike-specific servicing manual, but these are often hard to come by and can be pricey if you do eventually locate one. However, I do suggest you think about investing in the Haynes Motorcycle Maintenance Techbook: this is a generic book of bike maintenance and has loads of hints and tips that could save you loads on servicing bills.
As most parts of any motorcycle are based on the same idea, much of the book answers even specific questions that apply to your problem. Anyway, good luck!! Posted on Jan 29, 2009. • 3567 Answers SOURCE: Disconnect the cable at the engine. Does the cable move freely when disconnected? If it does, remove the left side cover then check the operation of the clutch arm.
Does it move freely and spring back freely? If not then clean it up. Math 1 Curriculum Guide 2018 Fl. If it does move freely, remove the clutch push rod from the center case.
Roll it on a flat surface. Does it roll smoothly or does it sort of lope along. If bent, replace it. If rolling smoothly then put it back in the center-case and remount the side casing. Lube the clutch cable and remount it also. The adjuster #23 should be screwed in until it is snug then back off the screw 1/4 turn. Assuming no one has tinkered with the actual clutch and it was operating properly a few months ago or when it was put up for the winter, now is the time for an oil change.
Dirty, gritty oil can stiffen a clutch big time. Drain the oil and refill with 10w40 motor oil. No synthetics or oils with 'special' additives or friction reducers. No oil marked ECII. Just normal motor oil.
Shell, Mobil, Pennzoil, etc., the major brands. Ride the bike for an hour or so then change the oil again. Doing this will flush most all of the grit from the gearbox. Hey, oil ain't that expensive. This should take care of the problem.
A “very helpful” rating on this answer? Posted on Jul 02, 2009.
• 1 Answer SOURCE: i actuall have a yamaha enduro 100 and had this same problem. First thing is take the clutch apart take all the rings out and clean them good with momry cloth assemble the clutch compleatly as it came out and when tighting the springs tight them all one turn at a time and after everytime you go around try to move youre clutch with youre bike in gear. If it trys to move it is engageing just keep turning the screws untill they stop. Also recomend putting threadlocker on the drive gear bolt and the clutch bolt that holds the clutch on.
If you have and questions just e-mail me at just make shure to tell me that i responded to youre fixya question about youre bike and i will walk you threw it. Ps just rember to put the clutch pushrod back in Posted on Oct 23, 2009. Hi, Anonymous the vast majority of service, parts fiche, and owners manuals on the internet are 'FREE' to download and all service manuals contain wiring diagrams in the back pages. The rest usually charge a modest fee of $15 and there is a handful of obscure, rare, obsolete, and very old models that are no longer or never were available and some were never printed in English. The Indian and Philippine markets are usually in E-book format only, for these rare occasions I shall look on eBay and find the cheapest one available.
Most of the manuals will cover your exact make, model, and year otherwise one will be provided that comes as close as possible to your bike and will have most of the same info that an exact manual would have. If there is no $ sign after the manual link it is free to download. To download your manual for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Miller Bobcat 225g Repair Manual on this page. Good luck and have a wonderful day $15 Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Mar 04, 2018 .